Civil war between the government and the Kachin Independence Army (the KIA) closed off all trips upriver to Banmaw in Kachin State. They didn't say anything about bicycles, though! A return to the Kachin swamps north of Banmaw, a ghastly road accident and a trip downriver with wounded soldiers made this the most eventful trip to date. The trip culminated in a trip out to Kule lake, near Singu in Mandalay Division: the exact lake where the penultimate wild pink-headed duck was collected in Burma in 1908.