It's time to hunt smart! Instead of throwing money away on being told what not to do in Burma, this trip enlisted the help of a specialist travel agent, porters, guides and a flight from Mandalay to Khamti in the far north, to head down the Chindwin river into Nagaland on the trail of the pink-headed duck. Staying in a rustic, stilted village and bartering for gold was our night work; the days were spent in an un-surveyed area of wetlands that were the best territory discovered so far. For this was 'wild Burma', closed to tourists and accessible only to those with gold in their eyes - and ducks in their dreams.